Book Review: The Sushi Economy

by Sasha Issenberg. Sushi, by far Japan’s greatest culinary export. I read this book because it was listed as one of the finalists for an award from the International Association of Culinary Professionals in the Literary Food Writing Category. It’s a well written testimony to the origins of sushi and how it’s evolved to become the most indulgent and luxurious protein consumed. Something about eating raw fish seems primitive, pure, and removed from the spoils of the modern food system. In reality, the crown jewel of the sushi world, tuna, epitomizes globalization. This book exposes the convoluted dynamics impacting the well being of this species. In addition, according to the author, the consumption of raw fish in a society demonstrates the utmost achievement is the advancements of food hygiene and culinary conquest. A favorite passage from the book makes this point:

"Culturally, sushi denotes a certain type of material sophistication, a
declaration that we are confidently rich enough not to be impressed by
volume and refined enough to savor good things in small doses.”

There is a moral take away from the information presented. Environmentally conscience sushi eaters must not limit themselves to maguro (tuna). Diversification in choice helps ensure the survival of fish species, which like anything valuable is subject to exploitation, depletion, and ultimately extinction. The point is made by explaining:

“There’s a saying that has long circulated among chefs: If you eat only maguro
at sushi restaurants, you’ll be hated.”

A chapter in this book explains Tsukiji, the fish market in central Tokyo. Last spring when friends were visiting, we took an early morning ride to the market. Tsukiji is the heart and soul of the seafood trade, especially tuna. Ultimately, events at Tsukiji impact the price of fish worldwide.

Above: Harvested Tuna at Tsukiji

Below: Frozen tuna sawed into quarters